The connection of a SATA device to a host system that is already powered. The SATA device is already powered or powered upon insertion/connection. Unpowered OS-Aware Hot Plug / Removal: This is defined as the insertion / removal of a Device into / from a backplane connector (combined signal and power) that has power shutdown. Note that disconnecting the data first, then the power, when removing the drive will allow the drive to detect the removal, and possibly perform a few last millisecond housekeeping tasks before the power is fully removed. While the electrical and communication layers support both hot plug and hot removal, check that your drive controller, operating system, and drivers support them. Now the drive before the twist will work as a drive B listening to select B signals, while the drive after the twist will work as drive A listening to select A signals. I really don't have to touch mocp except to adjust the volume every now and then when a random station jacks up their volume or something. If you are crazy and want to do illuminated knobs, NOW is the time to solder LEDs to the rotary encoders.

If you look carefully, you can still see evidence of my failed attempt to solder the original control pad to the Pi's GPIO and that I broke the delicate plastic retaining thingamajig meant to hold a Pi Zero camera in place (No big deal. Once they are together, you can use the nuts on the screws to hold it together. PCB (with the spacers still attached) using screws to hold it together. Unfortunately, I decided to wire up the LED using solid core wire. Note Bugfight created a detachable solution by using Right Angled SIL Headers on the base PCB in this this thread. Note There is a potentially better method mentioned on the forums (here) which uses JST headers on the baseboard and either right-angled JST headers on the CS or just normal right-angled SIL headers. Note that we use the UART TXD0 GPIO here, which is a GPIO we would've needed for a fire button had we been successful in connecting our control pad. To make matters worse, I found that the wires didn't even have the length to stretch to the GPIO and also fit back into the case (soldering the wires to a veroboard and then connecting that up to the Pi GPIO is a better way to go about things).

There are other ways of connecting up a power button, but they all seem to involve Python and like I said earlier, I had no way to easily install anything and Python is not included in RetroPie. So if you plug in the power first, the drive turns on, recognizes there's no data cable, and waits for the data cable to be attached. If you plug in the data first, the computer recognizes the drive attachment, and that the drive isn't ready, and waits for the drive to signal that it's available. Certain non-PC-compatible systems (like the Radio Shack Color Computer) did actually use floppies without the cable twist, but required manually setting the jumpers, and could indeed use four drives at once. Make sure you do not put cable in the extra "GND" pads Put all eight 8-wire cables in, plus the single 2-wire cable. Oh well, it's not the end of the world and I hear there are some pretty decent official Sega USB control pads available these days. For each cable, insert it from the top into the pads on both sides, what is control cable checking it is perpendicular to both PCBs and maintaining both PCBs are parallel. Then use the holes of the PCB to bend the ends of the wire - insert cable so 2mm of wire (about the thickness of the PCB) is visible between the top of the PCB and the start of the insulation, then bend 90 degrees.

Insert diodes. CHECK ORIENTATION! Solder diodes. The diode to the left of the switch labelled "SHIFT" on the panel is too close and can prevent proper positioning of the switch. I solder the shorter lead first, so that the longer lead can be used to move the LED if you need to adjust the LED position later. Solder ONE lead of each LED… I advise people NOT TO SOLDER ANYTHING to the control surface PCB until you read the finished control surface construction guide. I still have not fully completed the control surface construction guide. Added the rest of the pin names to the MSF5000 control jack pinout. I suggest "rounding" the cable afterwards, it's easier to identify which wire goes to which pin when it's still a flat ribbon. This makes for a very strong connection with little stress on the solder joints or the exposed wire. Solder switches. Some switches overlap the LCD PCB!